(Roughly) Daily

With this post– and with all best wishes for the Holidays!– (Roughly) Daily heads into its annual seasonal hiatus. Regular service will resume in the new year.

Tis the season when thoughts turn to festive feasts… featuring, for many, turkey; but for others, a range of alternate “mains.” Adam Shprintzen shares the history– and his personal experience– of a real outlier– but one that played an important role in the development of American food culture…

… Meat substitutes marked a turn for the vegetarian movement at the start of the 20th century, one that led to a depoliticization for a whole generation of vegetarians. Protose—the name mashes together the word protein and the suffix -ose, or full of—was the most popular and enduring meat substitute crafted in the experimental kitchen at the Battle Creek Sanitarium (or San), the Michigan health resort operated by John Harvey Kellogg from 1876 to 1943. Promoted as a versatile meat alternative, Protose could be eaten as an entrée like a beef steak, on a sandwich for a light lunch, or as a roast to be carved ceremonially. The product was served to San visitors, marketed via mail order, and available at local grocers. The marketing of fake meats in early-20th-century America represented a transformation from vegetarianism’s radical, 19th-century political past into a community of individualistic consumers looking to produce healthy, economically productive bodies and minds…

… Research based on product descriptions led me to an approximation of the product: wheat gluten, cereal, and peanut butter. I used a wooden mixing spoon to work the ingredients together, which increased in resistance as the peanut butter activated the gluten proteins. The ingredients combined into a meatish paste with the consistency of raw, ground beef.

To turn the basic recipe into a real meal, I followed a 1913 recipe for Protose cutlets from Lenna Frances Cooper, the San’s head dietician. The recipe called for Protose to be mixed with corn flakes, milk, eggs, and salt. The mixture was slow-roasted in an oven and filled our apartment with a smell that can best be described as vaguely chicken-adjacent. The result was texturally satisfying, though admittedly a little bland….

… The experience [helped] me understand why this was a culinary step forward for vegetarians, both fulfilling a desire to have more food choices and to present vegetarianism as socially acceptable by emulating meat. Smelling, tasting, and touching this fake meat helped me appreciate the sensory power of food as a historical force. And as a vegetarian of 16 years, the process also helped me appreciate and understand that my own food choices were and are very much shaped by the fake meats of the past…

The emergence of fake meat: “Protose Cutlets,” from @veghistory.bsky.social and @historians.org.

* Jane Grigson

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As we size up surrogates, we might consider an alternative to eggnog: today is National Sangria Day. The name derives from the Spanish word for bloodletting and refers to the red wine that was used as a base for the wine, fruit, and fruit juice punch.

While it’s typically associated with summer, one notes that Sangria’s red color makes it a perfect celebratory libation for the Holidays.

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